A Ukrainian Supermarket

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What to look for when visiting far-away cities and countries? Just like everyone else, I like to see beautiful buildings, famous museums, towers, bridges and other landmarks. However, in order to learn about the real life, I visit a local food market. This…

Very Little is Illuminated

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Every family, I imagine, has a story about their distant ancestors emerging from the foggy past. Some families trace their roots to an ameba crawling out from the primordial sea, while others – to the hungry crew of Mayflower securing…

Who’s a Jew?

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Now, here is a question, which can always spark an intriguing conversation around the dinner table. Really, there are many controversial points of view related to the Jewish identity, religion, ethnicity, nationality and many other issues, which can be sorted…

Pilgrimage to Uman, Ukraine

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Our large Opel sedan heads south of Kiev across the lifeless steppe, still frozen despite the early April sun. A two-lane road stretches across bare fields and features an increasing number of potholes, directly proportional to the distance we travel…

A letter from the Zone

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“Nothing is so firmly believed as what we least know.” Michel de Montaigne Shortly before visiting Ukraine I told a gathering of friends and relatives in LA about our plans to tour Chernobyl, the site of a major nuclear accident…